New Orleans
Guide to New Orleans During Mardi Gras
Can Y’all hear it? The brass boom of jazz music filling the air. The smell of deep fried cajun crawfish. The vibrations of people stomping through the streets, cheering for beads and guzzling back hurricanes. Welcome to The Big Easy: New Orleans, Louisiana! Every February/March over 1 million people head here for Mardi Gras.
Mardi Gras is a celebration held before Lent. The biggest party is Fat Tuesday (March 5th this year, 2019) and festivities run the entire month leading up to it. If you just want the run-down of sights and restaurants you can click here but Read on to find out tips and highlights to make the best of your New Orleans Trip!
First things first…
How to Book NOLA on the cheap: Mardi Gras prices are crazy. A year ahead flights averaged $500 (from Toronto) and Airbnbs at $100-$150 p/night. I booked in October (6 months prior) and flights were $800 (we payed $576 using Skyscanner flight alerts) and airbnbs went up $400-$650 p/night! Try to book a year in advance! You may get cheap last minute flights, but accommodations skyrocket closer to Mardi Gras.
Accommodations: Consider the walking you’ll do. Street cars are $1.25 but don’t run during parades which are frequent during Mardi Gras. Uber drivers won’t go near parade streets either.
Pro Tip: You can download the app WLL Parade Tracker that lets you know the times/ locations of all parades during mardi gras! This was really handy:)
We stayed at Springhill Marriott Convention centre (usually $178 p/night, but $400 during Mardi Gras). The location is right in the middle of everything (a couple blocks from Bourbon st (north) and great shopping/sightseeing on Magazine st (south).
*A note on short connections: We had to book a 1 hour connection. Most people confirmed it’s doable so long as there aren’t delays. Due to weather we got there 10 mins before take off, sprinted but didn’t make it. Stress I’d avoid at all costs! Since it was the weather/airlines fault, they booked us next flight, FIRST CLASS free of charge. I drank wine and got to check riding first class off the bucket list. WAHOO
Now the Fun Stuff
4 Days in NOLA during Mardi Gras
DAY 1:
To save you time searching the web, the main excursions in NOLA are: Plantation tours, food tours, swamp tours, and Ghost tours. We did everything for $250 CAD using a combo tour from Viator that offers roundtrip transportation, entry to 2 plantations, a cajun lunch and a Bayou boat tour: https://www.viator.com/en-CA/tours/New-Orleans/Experience-Cajun-Country-Swamp-Boat-Adventure-and-Plantations-Full-Day-Tour-from-New-Orleans/d675-2292GRAND
Part 1 of the tour takes you down the Bayou. It’s an hour drive and we were greeted by a spunky older man named Roland who is hilarious and a pro at spotting gators. We saw so many and it was unconventionally beautiful on the water. 10/10 would recommend a swamp tour!
PART 2 LUNCH AT OAK ALLEY PLANTATION:
Our Cajun lunch was delicious, especially the Bread Pudding (taste like Cinnabon!). It’s a staple in New Orleans and I loved it so much I came home and recreated a Keto Version (for recipe click here or head to Good Eats page). I wasn’t however a big fan of the Oak Alley tour. I’d recommend a food tour instead if I’m being honest.
The grounds of Oak Alley are beautiful, but the inside of the house wasn’t as impressive and the guide was awful. He spewed a hundred names a minute in monotone, It was like a dry class trip. I wanted to hear about the history of slaves and turmoil in New Orleans, but the tour is more a biography about the house owners. On the plus side we purchased an Oak Alley red wine and it’s SO good.
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Part 3: Laura Plantation:
This plantation wasn’t as beautiful as Oak Alley, but the guide was incredible! He knew every little detail about each member in the house, went into depth on the relationship with the slaves, and was very energetic in his delivery. Unfortunately it poured rain during this tour so bring an umbrella and dress accordingly. The week before we came it called for 25 degrees celsius and sun, when we arrived in NO the weather dropped to 10 degrees with none of the usual humidity. I suggest bringing a variety of warm/cold clothes and a raincoat!
Overall, I suggest the swamp tour, but maybe just choose one plantation. OR if you wanna save money you can rent a car for a day and simply pay the admission fees for each plantation. It’d be a lot cheaper than $250.
Dinner: We went for all day breakfast at ‘Mother’s’ (401 Poydras st.), which was recommended by locals and lined up out the door. Unlike restaurants where you sit and order, there’s a line to place your order/pay then find a table. You need to know what you want before hand because everyone else is waiting. We ordered a NO staple, Po Boys (sandwiches usually with deep fried meat). For Mother’s great reputation, it was just okay.
Right in front of Mother’s was a big parade. It was wild! People were screaming and when I looked up I knew why. King of the Bacchus float was Supernatural’s Jensen Ackles aka. DEAN FREAKING WINCHESTER. The walls in my bedroom are covered with posters of Jensen and Jared from when I was 12. I’m 26 so you can imagine the years of pent up fan girling unleashed.
The last stop of day: Harrah’s casino, just a block from Mother’s. It was my first time at a casino and as someone who sucks at math, I struggled. I lost $20 at the Craps table which was thrilling until I realized how much bread pudding you ca get for that.
Day 2: Shopping and Sightseeing
There’s a lot more to New Orleans than just bourbon street. We took a $10 uber to the vintage shop Funky Monkey on Magazine street. There a variety of great vintage shops, boutiques and restaurants along this street. My personal favourites include: Funky Monkey, Armoire, and Lennon and Lane.
For sightseeing, Magazine street in itself is a beauty. The colourful shotgun houses are so gorgeous. It’s very ‘instagramable’ as the kids say. One particular house receives several visitors, 2627 Coliseum St, just off of Magazine.
This big beautiful tucked away mansion is home to Miss Congeniality, Sandra Bullock. She is a national treasure so you have to see the place! Just around the corner is Lafayette Cemetery No.1. DISCLAIMER: Lafayette was on my must-see list for NOLA, so I was disappointed that it’s closed during Mardi gras. Lafayette is a location for TV shows The Originals and American Horror Story. There are several cemeteries in NOLA, some you need to pay for access. Pass St. Louis 1. Cemetery to see Nic Cage’s pyramid tombstone lol.
We had lunch at Tracy’s which is another restaurant in the same style as Mother’s. It seemed popular with locals, but again our food was just okay.
In the evening we explored bourbon st. and the french quarter before our ghost tour. There was Jazz music was blasting, fireworks going off, and drunkards galore wandering the streets in search of a fine time.
We booked our Ghost tour on viator again, for $38 CAD linked here
https://www.viator.com/tours/New-Orleans/Night-Cemetery-and-Ghost-BYOB-Bus-Tour-in-New-Orleans/d675-64332P4
Our guide was dressed like the skids from Letterkenny. He was super entertaining and freaked us out with stories about the last group being touched by ghosts. This tour is BYOB so you can drink while you listen to real ghost stories. It advertises after dark access to the cemeteries, but you don’t actually go inside them. I wanted to see the graves so I was let down. At the end of the tour you get EMFs to look for ghosts. It would be fun for a bachelorette party, but it was pretty underwhelming. One woman caught a freaky hooded figure in her picture that looked like a dementor.
Day 3: Mardi Gras (Fat Tuesday)
Mardi Gras is easily the wildest party i’ve ever been too so I’ve decided to dedicate a separate post/guide for it you can access here entitled Tips For Surviving Mardi Gras
Day 4: All's Quiet in the Big Easy
New Orleans has a whole different vibe the day after Mardi Gras. The once crowded streets are empty with the exception of city cleaners picking sweeping up beads and taking down scaffolds. So these are my recommendations if you have one day in NOLA.
Get A Psychic Reading
This was a highlight of my trip. Marie Laveau’s House Of Voodoo (739 Bourbon St, New Orleans, LA 70116) is a shop/museum dedicated to the infamous practicioner of voodoo in Louisiana. The little shop is filled with creepy voodoo dolls, magic herbs, spell books and everything for your occult needs. For $40 USD you can have a palm/tarot reading in the backroom. TIP: The place is small and gets crowded with tourists so the readings fill up fast, we went at noon and got the last spot left at 4pm.
Lunch at Jackson Square
Jackson Square is a great spot for sightseeing, shopping, and grabbing a bite to eat. It’s the perfect spot for a picnic where you can listen to street performers, watch magicians, and check out the artwork. After lunch be sure to check out the French Quarter Market. There’s several boutique shops.
Hot Sauce
My brother wanted famous cajun hot sauce and Magnolia’s Sugar and Spice Praline Kitchen is definitely a go-to for sauce lovers. You can sample all the sauces and there’s tons of flavours.
Cafe Du Monde
Every single blog/local recommends Cafe De Mond for coffee and Beignets. Located in the french quarter, this spot is no hidden gem. The line stretches way around the restaurant. I suggest you go by in the evening or early in the morning if you want to beat the line.
Hurricanes and Drive Thru Daiquiris: If you’re looking for a good time cocktail you have to try these NOLA favourites. FYI hurricanes are more for the effect then the taste. They are SUPER strong, you’ll feel buzzed after just one.
Deep Fried Everything:We wanted to try deep fried crawfish but were also craving Italian for some reason. Luckily we came across this cute little spot Frank’s Restaurant and were able to have the best of both worlds.
Too hungover to leave your hotel? Try some Cajun Delivery! We debated going to see some live Jazz music and having a big last meal, but Mardi Gras week is taxing. Coteri serves all the Creole classic right to your door so for our last meal we were able to have jambalaya, fried alligator, beignets and my favourite Bread Pudding! We used this site/app to order: https://www.grubhub.com/
Burlesque and Drag Shows
There’s tons of Burlesque and Drag shows in NOLA, but they are on specific nights of the week. Check schedules before your trip so you can plan accordingly. There was only karaoke/trivia when we were there.
Overall, I enjoyed my time in New Orleans but I think I would have liked it more if I was 21 and my liver was at full strength. If you enjoy spicy food, beautiful buildings, and rich history I would recommend at least a weekend visit to NOLA. I personally don’t think you need much more time than that to see everything.
The Run Down
Where to stay: Springhill Marriot Convention Centre (unless you can book an airbnb in advanced!)
Where to eat: Frank’s Italian, Coterie, Mother’s, FlamingoGoGo
Best Place to grab a quick bite/Coffee: Street Vendors!, Cafe Du Monde (expect lines), District Donuts
Nightlife: Fat Cats, Bourbon street in general, FlamingoGoGO, Harrah’s Casino, PARADES, BYOB bar crawls, walking tours and ghost tours, Burlesque/Drag Shows
Sights and Excursions: Magazine street for shopping, shotgun houses, Sandra Bullock’s house, Lafayette Cemetery, St. Louis Cemetery, Oak Alley Plantation, Laura Plantation, The Bayou (swamp tours), Jackson Square, The French quarter and French Market, Pat O’brian’s for Hurricanes, Marie Laveau’s Voodoo museum